ChezJK Summer Supper: Shiso Salmon Hand Rolls, Cranberry Beans, East–West Salad, Rockfish and Lemon Kefir
A five-course August supper that moves from fragrant shiso and rich salmon collar to silky beans, juicy tomatoes and gently cooked rockfish over smoky-sweet corn. Pluots, fresh herbs and bright dressings keep the savory courses lively; blueberries, bitter cacao nibs and tangy whipped lemon kefir make a cool finish.
By Jonathan Katzman · Cooked and photographed · Recipe updated
Serves: 4 servings

Broiled Salmon Collar for Shiso Hand Rolls
Salmon collar has enough fat to stay succulent under a hot broiler. Picking the meat after cooking removes the awkward bones and makes a small leaf-wrapped bite easy to eat.
Ingredients
- 1–1½ lb salmon collars, enough to yield about 6–8 ounces cooked meat
- ½ tsp fine sea salt
- 1 tsp avocado oil
- 1 tsp Shared Cultures tamari
- 1 tsp fresh lemon juice
- 8 large shiso leaves, washed and thoroughly dried
Instructions
- Pat the collars dry, season with salt and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Blot away surface moisture and brush lightly with avocado oil.
- Heat the broiler with a rack about 6 inches below the element. Put the collars on a foil-lined metal tray and broil for 10–15 minutes, turning as needed, until browned and the thickest flesh reaches 145°F away from the bone.
- Rest for 3 minutes, then carefully lift the meat from the bones in generous pieces. Check closely for small bones and fin fragments.
- Season the picked meat lightly with tamari and lemon juice. Reserve the shiso for assembling the hand rolls with the eggplant and cauliflower rice.
Notes
- Collars vary greatly in yield; buy by expected edible meat rather than collar count.
Roasted Eggplant for the Hand Rolls
Soft eggplant anchors the salmon and catches its juices without needing a separate rich sauce.
Ingredients
- 1 medium Japanese eggplant, about 6 ounces
- 2 tsp avocado oil
- ¼ tsp fine sea salt
- 1 tsp rice vinegar
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 425°F. Cut the eggplant into short batons about ½ inch thick.
- Toss with avocado oil and salt, spread on a parchment-lined tray and roast for 20–25 minutes, turning once, until browned and creamy inside.
- Sprinkle with rice vinegar and let cool to warm before assembling the hand rolls.
Toasted Cauliflower Rice
Cooking the cauliflower uncovered drives off moisture, giving the hand rolls a loose, lightly toasted filling rather than a wet mash.
Ingredients
- 2 cups coarsely riced cauliflower
- 2 tsp avocado oil
- ¼ tsp fine sea salt
- 1 tsp rice vinegar
Instructions
- Heat avocado oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add the cauliflower and salt in a thin layer.
- Cook uncovered for 6–8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but distinct, with a few golden edges and no pooled moisture.
- Stir in the rice vinegar and spread on a plate to cool slightly so it will not wilt the shiso.
Fennel and Cranberry Beans
Fresh shelling beans provide a creamy, earthy base for salty cured meats. Slowly softened fennel and a little bean liquor keep the dish supple rather than heavy.
Ingredients
- 2 cups fresh shelled cranberry beans, from about 1½ pounds in the pod
- 1 small bay leaf
- 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
- 1 medium fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced
- 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tsp lemon juice, plus more to taste
- to taste fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- as needed water
Instructions
- Put the beans, bay leaf and garlic in a saucepan. Cover with water by 1 inch and add a generous pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently for 25–45 minutes, until fully creamy inside but still intact. Add water as necessary to keep them submerged.
- Meanwhile, warm the olive oil in a separate saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the fennel and a pinch of salt. Cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly golden; add a splash of water if it begins to catch.
- Transfer the cooked beans to the fennel with about ½ cup of their cooking liquid. Simmer together for 5 minutes, until glossy and moist rather than soupy.
- Remove the bay leaf, mash the softened garlic into the juices and season with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Serve warm, not piping hot.
Notes
- For cooked beans, use 2 cups drained beans and begin with the fennel; add water or unsalted stock in place of bean liquor.
Prosciutto and Salami with Parsley
Thin, room-temperature cured meats soften against the warm beans and season each bite without being cooked.
Ingredients
- 2 oz thinly sliced prosciutto
- 2 oz thinly sliced salami
- ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley leaves
- 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
Instructions
- Separate the meat slices and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.
- Loosely fold the prosciutto and salami over the warm fennel and beans, leaving some beans visible.
- Finish with parsley leaves and a few drops of olive oil.
Cucumber and Pluot with Tamari and Vegan XO
Crunchy cucumber and fragrant stone fruit balance the concentrated savory flavor of tamari and XO. Dressing just before serving preserves their fresh texture.
Ingredients
- 2 small Persian cucumbers
- 2 medium ripe but firm pluots, pitted
- 2 tsp Shared Cultures tamari
- 2 tsp rice vinegar
- 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tsp Noma Projects vegan XO, plus more to taste
- 8 small purple basil leaves
Instructions
- Peel the cucumbers in alternating strips if desired, then cut into oblique chunks. Cut the pluots into thin wedges.
- Mix the tamari, rice vinegar and olive oil. Toss gently with the cucumber and pluot immediately before serving.
- Arrange on one side of the salad plates, dot with vegan XO and scatter with purple basil. Taste before adding more XO or tamari.
Notes
- Keep the XO in small clusters rather than stirring it through everything; this preserves contrast and lets its intensity vary from bite to bite.
Early Girl, Sungold and Sweet 100 Tomatoes à la Grecque
A restrained garlic-and-oregano vinaigrette lets peak-season tomatoes provide most of the sweetness and juice. Keeping this dressing distinct from the tamari side gives the salad its East–West character.
Ingredients
- 3 medium Early Girl tomatoes, cut into wedges
- ½ cup Sungold tomatoes, halved
- ½ cup Sweet 100 tomatoes, halved
- 1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tsp red wine vinegar
- ½ small clove garlic, very finely minced
- 1 tsp fresh oregano leaves, chopped
- 8 small green basil leaves, torn
- to taste fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
- optional food-grade edible flowers
Instructions
- Whisk the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, oregano, a pinch of salt and a little pepper.
- Gently toss with the tomatoes and leave at room temperature for 10 minutes.
- Arrange beside the cucumber and pluot, spooning over a little of the tomato juices. Add basil and optional edible flowers just before serving.
Notes
- Use only flowers sold or grown specifically for eating; ornamental florist flowers are not suitable.
Gently Baked Rockfish
Gentle oven heat preserves rockfish's delicate flakes and pale, moist surface. The fish stays understated so the charred corn and ripe tomatoes carry the bolder flavors.
Ingredients
- 1 lb skinless rockfish fillets, pin bones removed, divided into four portions
- 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- ½ tsp fine sea salt
- 2 tsp lemon juice
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 300°F. Pat the fish dry, season with salt and arrange in a lightly oiled shallow baking dish. Fold thin tail ends underneath for more even thickness.
- Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and cover the dish with parchment and foil.
- Bake for 12–20 minutes, depending on thickness, until the center reaches 145°F and the flesh separates into moist flakes. Begin checking thin fillets early.
- Lift carefully onto the warm corn sauce and finish with the lemon juice.
Notes
- Have the sauce, squash and serving plates ready before the fish finishes; rockfish dries out if held hot.
Charred Corn Sauce with Whole Kernels
Blending only part of the corn creates a sweet, velvety sauce while leaving plenty of toasted kernels for texture. Butter rounds the purée, and lemon prevents it from tasting flat.
Ingredients
- 4 ears sweet corn, husked
- 1 tbsp ghee
- 1 small shallot, finely sliced
- 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1–2 tsp lemon juice
- 1½ cups water, plus more as needed
- to taste fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Cut the kernels from the cobs. Break two cobs in half, put in a small saucepan with the water and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain and reserve the corn broth.
- Heat ghee in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add the kernels in batches if necessary and leave undisturbed briefly before stirring. Cook for 5–7 minutes, until scattered kernels are deeply golden but most remain juicy. Reserve about one-third for finishing.
- In a saucepan, soften the shallot in olive oil over medium-low heat for 3–4 minutes without browning. Add the remaining charred kernels and ¾ cup corn broth. Simmer for 5 minutes.
- Blend until very smooth, adding corn broth as needed to make a thick, spoonable sauce. Use a vented blender lid when blending hot liquid. Pass through a fine sieve if a particularly silky texture is desired.
- Return to low heat, stir in butter and season with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Warm the reserved kernels separately with a spoonful of broth before serving.
Notes
- The sauce should spread slowly across a warm plate. Thin with corn broth if stiff; simmer briefly if watery.
Roasted Romanesco Squash with Sungolds and Basil
Thick rounds of ribbed summer squash become tender without losing their shape. Raw Sungolds and basil give the warm fish plate a fresh, juicy finish.
Ingredients
- 2 small Romanesco summer squash, about 12 ounces total
- 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 cup Sungold tomatoes, halved
- ¼ cup purple basil leaves
- 1 tsp lemon juice
- to taste fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 425°F. Cut the squash into ½-inch-thick rounds and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.
- Spread on a metal tray and roast for 18–22 minutes, turning once, until lightly browned and tender but not collapsing.
- Season the tomatoes with a small pinch of salt and the lemon juice just before serving.
- Arrange the squash beside the rockfish and scatter the tomatoes and purple basil over the corn and fish.
Blueberries, Cacao Nibs and Whipped Lemon Kefir
Tangy, lightly sweetened cultured dairy balances ripe blueberries, while cacao nibs add a crisp, bitter contrast. Keeping the berries whole makes this a clean, refreshing finish.
Ingredients
- 1 cup thick Achadinha lemon kefir, or enough drained lemon kefir to yield 1 cup
- 1–2 tsp honey, to taste
- 2 cups fresh blueberries, washed and dried
- 3 tbsp cacao nibs
- 4 small mint leaves
Instructions
- If the kefir is pourable, drain it in a cloth-lined sieve over a bowl in the refrigerator for 8–12 hours, until thick enough to hold a soft mound. Start with about 2 cups and measure 1 cup after draining.
- Whisk the cold thick kefir with 1 teaspoon honey for 30–60 seconds, until smooth and lightly aerated. Taste and add more honey only if needed; do not expect liquid kefir to whip like cream.
- Divide the blueberries among four shallow dessert bowls. Add a generous spoonful of whipped kefir in the center.
- Scatter with cacao nibs and finish each bowl with a mint leaf. Serve cold.
Notes
- If the lemon kefir is already sweetened, taste before adding honey.
Overall Timing / Workflow
Most components tolerate advance preparation, leaving only leaf assembly, salad dressing and the delicate fish for service.
Instructions
- The night before, check the kefir consistency and drain it under refrigeration if needed.
- About 2 hours before dinner, shell and start the cranberry beans. Soften the fennel while they simmer. Make the corn broth and charred corn sauce, reserving the whole kernels.
- Heat the oven to 425°F and roast the eggplant and squash on separate trays. Cook the cauliflower rice while they roast. Refrigerate anything prepared more than 2 hours before service.
- Prepare the salad dressings, wash and dry the herbs, and portion the cured meats and fish. Keep the raw fish refrigerated. Whisk the kefir and return it to the refrigerator.
- About 20 minutes before the first course, broil and pick the salmon. Assemble the shiso hand rolls only when everyone is ready to eat.
- Serve the warm beans with the cured meats next, then dress and plate the two halves of the salad.
- After broiling, lower the oven to 300°F and let it cool to that temperature. Gently bake the rockfish while warming the corn sauce, reserved kernels and squash. Finish the tomatoes and herbs at the last moment.
- Assemble the blueberry desserts after the fish course so the cacao nibs stay crisp.
Notes
- Keep perishable components refrigerated between preparations; do not leave the entire menu sitting out through all five courses.
Plating
Small, distinct courses preserve the playful progression of the meal. Modest portions and restrained sauces keep the summer produce and contrasting textures clear.
Instructions
- For each hand roll, overlap two shiso leaves on a small plate. Add a little eggplant, 2–3 tablespoons cauliflower rice and a generous piece of salmon. Serve open so diners can fold the leaves around the filling.
- For the bean course, spoon a small mound of fennel and beans into each shallow bowl with a little cooking liquor. Drape with prosciutto and salami and finish with parsley.
- For the salad, arrange cucumber and pluot on one half of each plate and the dressed tomatoes on the other. Keep the XO mainly on the cucumber side and finish with herbs and optional edible flowers.
- For the main course, spread warm corn sauce across each shallow bowl. Add rockfish slightly off-center, scatter whole corn kernels around it and tuck squash rounds at the edge. Finish with Sungolds and purple basil.
- For dessert, surround a soft mound of whipped lemon kefir with blueberries, scatter cacao nibs around and over it, and stand a mint leaf beside the kefir.
Leftover Path
Storing components separately protects the fresh leaves, crisp nibs and delicate fish. The cooked beans and corn sauce are especially useful foundations for another meal.
Instructions
- Refrigerate cooked fish and other perishable leftovers within 2 hours of cooking or serving. Store fish, beans, vegetables, corn sauce and cultured dairy in separate covered containers.
- Use cooked salmon and rockfish within 2 days. Reheat gently, covered, with a splash of water until they reach 165°F; alternatively, use properly chilled fish cold in freshly assembled shiso wraps.
- Keep beans, roasted vegetables and corn sauce for up to 3–4 days. Loosen the sauce with water while reheating. Combine beans and vegetables for a warm lunch, or spoon corn sauce beneath eggs.
- Eat dressed cucumber, pluot and tomato salad by the next day; it will be softer and juicier. Keep any undressed produce separate for better texture.
- Keep whipped kefir refrigerated and use within 2 days or the product's earlier use-by date. Store berries separately and add dry cacao nibs only when serving.