Za’atar Whitebait, Cold Chraime Soup & Smashed Cucumber–Avocado Salad

Za’atar Fries with Eyes

A thin starch coating crisps without hiding the delicate fish. Tossing with za’atar after frying preserves its herbal aroma and keeps the sesame from burning.

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb small whole smelt or whitebait, about 3–4 inches long, cleaned and gutted as needed, heads and tails intact
• 6 tablespoons cassava flour
• 2 tablespoons tapioca starch
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to finish
• 3 cups avocado oil, or enough for a 2-inch depth in a heavy pot
• 2 tablespoons gluten-free za’atar with sesame and sumac
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges

Instructions

1. Pat the fish very dry, including inside the cavities. Refrigerate uncovered while preparing the other components.
2. Mix the cassava flour, tapioca starch, and salt in a shallow dish. Set a wire rack over a sheet pan for draining.
3. Heat the avocado oil to 350°F in a heavy pot, keeping the pot no more than half full. Lightly dredge one batch of fish immediately before frying and shake off excess flour.
4. Lower the fish carefully into the oil without crowding. Fry for 3–5 minutes, turning if needed, until lightly golden with crisp fins and opaque flesh. The thickest part should reach 145°F; check a larger fish from the first batch.
5. Drain briefly on the rack. Repeat with the remaining fish, returning the oil to 350°F between batches.
6. While still hot, sprinkle generously with za’atar and a little additional salt if needed. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

Notes

• Choose very small fish for delicate, edible bones. With larger smelt, remove the backbone at the table rather than assuming every bone is edible.
• Avoid piling the cooked fish or covering them; trapped steam softens the coating.

Cold Chraime Soup

Cooking the tomato paste and blooming the spices builds the savory depth of chraime. Lemon added after chilling restores the acidity that cold temperatures can mute.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon ground caraway
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
• 1 28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes with their juices
• 1 1/2 cups light unsalted fish stock, gluten-free and without added sugar
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
• 3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste
• 1/4 cup cilantro leaves

Instructions

1. Warm 2 tablespoons olive oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the garlic and cook for 1–2 minutes until fragrant but not browned.
2. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, until it darkens slightly. Add the paprika, cumin, caraway, and cayenne and stir for 20 seconds.
3. Add the tomatoes, their juices, fish stock, and salt. Break up the tomatoes and simmer gently, partly covered, for 20 minutes.
4. Blend until smooth, following the blender’s precautions for hot liquids. Add a splash of water if needed for a pourable soup rather than a thick sauce.
5. Transfer to a shallow metal container and cool in an ice bath, stirring frequently. Refrigerate promptly until thoroughly cold, about 2–3 hours.
6. Stir in the lemon juice. Taste cold and adjust salt, lemon, and heat. Divide among bowls and finish with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil and cilantro.

Notes

• Water can replace the stock for a lighter tomato-forward soup.
• The soup should have a gentle chile warmth, pronounced garlic, and enough acidity to remain lively when cold.

Lemony Tahina Dressing

Lemon and cold water turn tahini into a pale, creamy dressing without dairy. A loose consistency coats the smashed cucumber crevices without overwhelming the avocado.

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup well-stirred tahini
• 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 small clove garlic, finely grated
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 4–6 tablespoons ice-cold water

Instructions

1. Whisk the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and salt together. It will initially become thick and stiff.
2. Whisk in the cold water a tablespoon at a time until pale, smooth, and pourable. Aim for a consistency that lightly coats a spoon.
3. Taste and adjust the lemon and salt. Refrigerate until needed, loosening with a little water before dressing the salad if it thickens.

Smashed Cucumber & Avocado Salad

Salting and draining the smashed cucumbers keeps their crunch and prevents them from watering down the tahina. Avocado and abundant fresh herbs soften the sharp lemon and garlic.

Ingredients

• 1 lb Persian cucumbers
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 2 firm-ripe avocados
• 1 batch Lemony Tahina Dressing
• 1/3 cup loosely packed mint leaves, large leaves torn
• 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves

Instructions

1. Lightly smash the cucumbers with the flat side of a broad knife or a rolling pin until they split, then cut into irregular 1-inch pieces.
2. Toss with the salt and drain in a colander for 10 minutes. Pat dry without rinsing.
3. Cut the avocados into generous bite-size chunks just before serving.
4. Toss the cucumbers with about two-thirds of the tahina dressing. Gently fold in the avocado and half the herbs, keeping the avocado pieces intact.
5. Transfer to a shallow bowl, spoon over the remaining dressing as desired, and scatter with the remaining mint and parsley.

Overall Timing / Workflow

Making the soup ahead leaves only quick cold assembly and frying at lunchtime. Frying last delivers the intended contrast of hot, crisp fish and chilled sides.

Instructions

1. At least 3 hours ahead or the day before: cook, blend, rapidly cool, and refrigerate the soup.
2. 30 minutes before serving: dry the fish, make the tahina dressing, and smash and salt the cucumbers.
3. 20 minutes before serving: drain the cucumbers, pick the herbs, cut the lemon wedges, and begin heating the frying oil.
4. 10 minutes before serving: taste and finish the cold soup, cut the avocados, and assemble the salad.
5. Fry the fish in small batches, season immediately with za’atar, and bring everything to the table as soon as the final batch is ready.

Plating

Separate bowls keep the cold dishes cold and the fish crisp. Orange nasturtiums add a peppery bite and a vivid spring accent.

Ingredients

• 8–12 optional food-safe nasturtium flowers, gently cleaned and dried

Instructions

1. Serve the cold soup in small bowls with visible cilantro leaves and a thin olive-oil drizzle.
2. Present the salad in a shallow bowl so the irregular cucumber, avocado, and herb leaves remain visible.
3. Arrange the fried fish loosely on a dry platter with lemon wedges. Place optional nasturtiums around the edge just before serving.

Notes

• Use only correctly identified edible flowers grown without pesticides; florist flowers are not suitable.

Leftover Path

The soup holds well, while the fish and salad need separate storage to preserve what texture remains.

Instructions

1. Refrigerate all leftovers within 2 hours. Store the soup, fish, and salad separately.
2. Keep the soup refrigerated for up to 2 days. Stir well and taste for lemon and salt before serving cold.
3. Refrigerate fried fish for up to 2 days. Reheat on a rack in a 400°F oven for 6–10 minutes, until crisp and heated through to 165°F; avoid microwaving.
4. Eat dressed cucumber–avocado salad by the next day; it will soften and the avocado may darken. Undressed cucumber and separate tahina dressing hold better, so dress only what you expect to eat.