Pork and Morel Crépinette with Stewed Sunburst Squash, Tomatoes, and Parsnip Fries

A deeply browned pork-and-morel crépinette anchors this early-summer plate, with juicy sunburst squash and tomatoes to cut through its richness. Long, golden parsnip fries bring sweet, earthy edges, while parsley and a little vinegar keep the vegetables bright.

By Jonathan Katzman · Cooked and photographed · Recipe updated

Serves: 4 servings

Pork and Morel Crépinette with Stewed Sunburst Squash, Tomatoes, and Parsnip Fries

Pan-Seared Pork and Morel Crépinettes

A controlled sear browns the caul-wrapped sausage without splitting it, and a short oven finish cooks the center evenly.

Ingredients

  • 4 raw pork-and-morel crépinettes, about 5–6 ounces each, preferably Fatted Calf
  • 1 tablespoon ghee

Instructions

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Pat the crépinettes dry, keeping their caul wrapping intact. Do not add salt unless the butcher recommends it.
  2. Heat the ghee in a heavy ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Add the crépinettes with space between them and cook for 4–5 minutes, until deeply golden underneath.
  3. Turn carefully with a thin spatula and brown the second side for 3–4 minutes. Spoon off excess rendered fat if it begins to pool heavily.
  4. Transfer the skillet to the oven and cook for approximately 8–15 minutes, depending on thickness, until an instant-read thermometer inserted sideways into the center registers 160°F. Follow any additional cooking directions supplied by the butcher.
  5. Rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Notes

  • Avoid pressing or piercing the crépinettes during searing; use the thermometer only when checking doneness.
  • If the exterior is browning too quickly, lower the heat rather than adding liquid.

Stewed Sunburst Squash and Tomatoes

A brief covered simmer softens the squash in tomato juices without collapsing it. Parsley and vinegar sharpen the sweet vegetables and balance the pork.

Ingredients

  • 1½ pounds yellow sunburst or pattypan squash
  • 1 pound ripe tomatoes, cut into large wedges
  • ½ medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
  • 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons water, plus more as needed
  • 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar, plus more to taste
  • ¼ cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
  • ½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Trim the squash and cut into substantial wedges, approximately 1–1½ inches across. Halve very small squash instead.
  2. Warm the olive oil in a wide saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and salt and cook for 6–8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until translucent but not browned.
  3. Add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Add the squash, half the tomatoes, and the water. Fold together gently.
  4. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 8–12 minutes, stirring once or twice, until the squash is nearly tender. Add a splash of water if the pan becomes dry.
  5. Add the remaining tomatoes and cook uncovered for 3–5 minutes, until the squash is tender and the newer tomato pieces are warmed and softened but still recognizable.
  6. Fold in the vinegar, parsley, and pepper. Taste for salt and acidity. The vegetables should be glossy with a little light juice, not swimming in liquid.

Notes

  • If the tomatoes release excessive liquid, lift out the tender vegetables and briefly reduce the juices before recombining.
  • Keep the heat gentle after adding the tomatoes to preserve their large, soft pieces.

Oven-Roasted Parsnip Fries

Long, evenly cut batons roast into sweet, tender fries with browned tips. Uncrowded pans let moisture escape rather than steam the parsnips.

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds parsnips, peeled and trimmed
  • 2½ tablespoons olive oil
  • ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

  1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Set out two large rimmed sheet pans.
  2. Cut the parsnips into long batons approximately ⅜ inch thick. Remove any hard, woody cores from especially large parsnips, and keep thin tail pieces slightly thicker so they do not burn.
  3. Toss with the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Spread across the pans in a single layer with space between the pieces.
  4. Roast for 15–20 minutes, then turn the fries and rotate the pans. Continue roasting for 15–20 minutes, until tender inside with golden faces and browned edges.
  5. Remove thinner pieces as they finish. Taste for salt and serve promptly.

Notes

  • Parsnip fries become tender with crisp edges rather than uniformly crunchy like deep-fried potatoes.

Overall Timing / Workflow

The fries take the longest, while the vegetables can wait briefly over very low heat. Both oven-cooked components use the same temperature.

Instructions

  1. 0:00 — Heat the oven to 425°F. Peel and cut the parsnips, then oil, season, and spread them on the sheet pans.
  2. 0:15 — Put the fries in the oven. Cut the squash, tomatoes, onion, garlic, and parsley.
  3. 0:25 — Start the onion for the stewed vegetables. Pat the crépinettes dry and begin heating their skillet.
  4. 0:30 — Turn the fries and rotate their pans. Begin searing the crépinettes; add the squash and first tomatoes to the vegetable pan as the onion softens.
  5. 0:40 — Transfer the crépinettes to the oven. Finish the vegetables with the remaining tomatoes, then parsley and vinegar.
  6. 0:45–0:55 — Remove the fries as they become golden. Check the crépinettes for a 160°F center, rest them for 5 minutes, and plate with the warm vegetables.

Notes

  • Allow some extra time for unusually thick crépinettes. If oven space is limited, finish the fries first and leave them uncovered while the pork cooks.

Plating

Separate piles preserve the fries’ browned edges and show off the vegetables’ color beside the rich pork.

Instructions

  1. Place one rested crépinette on each warm plate.
  2. Spoon the squash and tomatoes alongside, adding a little of their cooking juices around the vegetables rather than beneath the fries.
  3. Arrange the parsnip fries in a loose pile on the other side of the plate. Serve immediately.

Leftover Path

Separate storage keeps the vegetable juices from softening the fries, and gentle reheating protects the pork from drying out.

Instructions

  1. Refrigerate the pork, vegetables, and fries in separate shallow containers within 2 hours. Use within 3–4 days.
  2. Reheat the crépinettes in a covered ovenproof dish at 325°F with a small splash of water until their centers reach 165°F.
  3. Warm the squash and tomatoes gently in a saucepan, adding a little water only if needed.
  4. Reheat the fries in a single layer at 425°F for 8–12 minutes, turning once, until hot and their edges have firmed up.
  5. For a different meal, slice the reheated crépinette and serve it over the warm squash and tomatoes, with the parsnips alongside.