Shio Koji Black Cod Collars with Kombu–Garlic Miso Butter, Roasted Zucchini and Pumpkin Bushi Sunchokes
Rich black cod collars get a savory shio koji cure, then a glossy kombu–garlic miso butter glaze that browns under the broiler. Thick roasted zucchini and deeply caramelized sunchokes with pumpkin bushi make this a simple autumn plate with plenty of umami and contrasting textures.
By Jonathan Katzman · Cooked and photographed · Recipe updated
Serves: 4 servings
Tags: gluten-free, pescatarian

Shio Koji Black Cod Collars
Shio koji seasons the irregular collar meat evenly and encourages browning. Roasting gently cooks the rich flesh before a short broil sets the glaze.
Ingredients
- 3 lb black cod collars, about 4 large or 8 small, cleaned
- 4 tbsp gluten-free shio koji, preferably Shared Cultures
- 1 tsp avocado oil, for the rack
- 1 batch Kombu–Garlic Miso Butter Glaze, below
Instructions
- Pat the collars dry, checking the cut surfaces for loose scales and bone fragments. Coat the flesh and skin with shio koji and refrigerate, covered, for 4–8 hours.
- Heat the oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed sheet pan with foil and fit it with a lightly oiled oven-safe rack.
- Wipe away excess koji without rinsing and pat the collars dry. Arrange in a single layer with the broad skin surfaces facing upward.
- Roast for 10–16 minutes, depending on thickness, until the flesh is mostly opaque but not quite cooked at the bone.
- Brush exposed flesh and skin lightly with the glaze. Broil about 6 inches from the element for 2–4 minutes, watching continuously, until glossy and browned in spots.
- Check the thickest flesh without touching bone with the thermometer; it should reach 145°F and separate easily from the collar. If necessary, return to the 425°F oven briefly to finish. Rest for 3 minutes before serving.
Notes
- Collars vary greatly in yield; allow roughly 12 ounces bone-in per person and buy extra if they are especially bony.
- Koji and miso scorch readily. Brown the glaze rather than trying to blacken the entire skin.
Kombu–Garlic Miso Butter Glaze
Kombu and miso deepen the fish's savoriness, while butter makes a thin, clinging glaze. A little rice vinegar keeps the finish from feeling heavy.
Ingredients
- 1 piece dried kombu, approximately 2 by 3 inches
- 1/3 cup water
- 2 cloves garlic, finely grated
- 1 1/2 tbsp gluten-free mild white miso, preferably Shared Cultures
- 3 tbsp unsalted butter, cold and cubed
- 1 tsp unseasoned rice vinegar
Instructions
- Combine the kombu and water in a small saucepan. Heat until steaming, then keep below a simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the kombu.
- Add the garlic and gently simmer for 2–3 minutes, until its raw bite softens. Measure out 3 tablespoons of the infusion, reserving the remainder for thinning.
- Over low heat, whisk the miso into the measured infusion until smooth. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter a few cubes at a time, then add the rice vinegar.
- Adjust with reserved infusion a teaspoon at a time until the glaze brushes on easily but does not run straight off the fish. Keep warm, not boiling.
- Reserve a small portion in a clean bowl for serving before using the rest to brush the fish.
Notes
- Taste before adding any salt: both the cured fish and miso are already seasoned.
- If the butter separates, take the pan off the heat and whisk in a teaspoon of cool water.
Roasted Zucchini with Noma Projects Spice Mix
Large pieces develop browned cut faces while retaining a juicy center. Adding the spice mix late protects delicate aromatics from scorching.
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 lb zucchini
- 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
- 2 tsp Noma Projects spice mix, verified gluten-free
- 1/4 tsp kosher salt, reduced or omitted if the spice mix is salty
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 425°F. Cut the zucchini into thick, angled half-moons or wedges about 1–1 1/2 inches thick.
- Toss with the olive oil and salt. Spread on a metal sheet pan with a broad cut face against the pan, leaving space between pieces.
- Roast for 15–18 minutes, until the undersides are golden. Turn and sprinkle with the spice mix.
- Roast for another 5–10 minutes, until browned at the edges and just tender through the center. Serve promptly.
Notes
- The blend's salt and intensity may vary; taste it first and adjust the quantity accordingly.
- Use a separate pan from the sunchokes so zucchini moisture does not interfere with their crisp edges.
Roasted Sunchokes with Pumpkin Bushi
High heat gives sunchokes deeply browned skins and creamy interiors. Pumpkin bushi adds a concentrated savory finish without masking their sweet, earthy flavor.
Ingredients
- 1 1/4 lb sunchokes
- 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
- 1/2 tsp kosher salt
- 2 tbsp pumpkin bushi shavings, verified gluten-free
Instructions
- Heat the oven to 425°F. Scrub the sunchokes thoroughly and dry well, leaving the skins on. Cut into roughly 1 1/2-inch pieces, halving smaller ones.
- Toss with olive oil and salt, then spread on a metal sheet pan with cut sides down.
- Roast for 35–45 minutes, turning after about 25 minutes, until deeply browned and easily pierced through the center.
- Transfer to a warm bowl and gently toss with half the pumpkin bushi. Scatter the remainder over the sunchokes immediately before serving.
Notes
- Start with less salt if the pumpkin bushi is strongly seasoned.
- For a fine or powdered pumpkin bushi rather than shavings, begin with 1–2 teaspoons and increase to taste.
Overall Timing / Workflow
The sunchokes start first, while zucchini and fish join later at the same oven temperature. Broiling the fish last keeps its glaze glossy and the flesh moist.
Instructions
- 4–8 hours ahead: coat the collars in shio koji and refrigerate.
- 0:00 — Heat the oven to 425°F with racks in the upper and lower thirds. Scrub, cut, and season the sunchokes.
- 0:10 — Put the sunchokes on the lower rack. Prepare the zucchini and begin the kombu infusion.
- 0:25 — Put the zucchini on the upper rack. Finish the glaze, wipe the collars, and arrange them on their rack-lined pan.
- 0:35 — Turn the sunchokes and check the zucchini. Remove each vegetable when browned and tender; hold loosely covered. Put the fish on the upper rack as space becomes available.
- When the fish is nearly cooked, remove the vegetables from the oven and switch to broil. Glaze and broil the collars, check their temperature, then rest briefly.
- Finish the sunchokes with pumpkin bushi and plate everything while hot.
Notes
- If your oven cannot accommodate three pans, finish the vegetables first and hold them warm for the short fish-cooking window.
Plating
Separate clusters preserve the vegetables' distinct textures and leave room to pick the tender meat from the collars.
Instructions
- Place one large or two small collars on each warm plate, with browned skin and glazed flesh visible.
- Arrange zucchini to one side and sunchokes in a separate compact mound.
- Spoon a little reserved clean glaze over the exposed fish flesh, avoiding a heavy pool beneath the vegetables.
- Serve with a small bowl for bones and fins, reminding diners to watch for collar bones.
Leftover Path
Picking the fish while it is easy to handle makes leftovers more useful. Gentle reheating protects its texture, while the vegetables benefit from dry heat.
Instructions
- Once cool enough to handle, pick leftover collar meat carefully from the bones. Refrigerate the fish, vegetables, and any clean reserved glaze separately within 2 hours.
- Use the fish within 2 days and the vegetables within 3–4 days.
- Reheat vegetables in a 400°F oven until hot and their edges regain some texture. Reheat fish covered at 300°F with a small splash of water until it reaches 165°F.
- Alternatively, serve the picked fish cold over dressed greens with leftover zucchini and thinly sliced roasted sunchokes.
Notes
- Discard glaze that contacted undercooked fish unless it was subsequently cooked thoroughly.