Steelhead Trout Piccata with Roasted Japanese Sweet Potato and Braised Spigariello Riccia

Pan-Seared Steelhead Trout

A very light cassava coating helps the flesh develop an even golden crust without becoming breaded. Cooking the fish separately from the sauce preserves that browned surface.

Ingredients

• 4 fillets skin-on steelhead trout, 6–7 ounces each, scaled and pin bones removed
• 2 tablespoons cassava flour
• 2 tablespoons ghee
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Pat the fillets very dry. Season with salt and pepper, then dust only the flesh sides lightly with cassava flour, shaking off all excess.
2. Heat the ghee in a wide skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Lay the fish flesh-side down and cook undisturbed for 3–4 minutes, until golden and easily released from the pan.
3. Turn the fish skin-side down and reduce the heat to medium. Cook for another 3–6 minutes, depending on thickness, until the center reaches 145°F and separates into moist flakes. Use two skillets if needed to avoid crowding.
4. Transfer to a warm platter, browned flesh facing up, and leave uncovered while making the piccata sauce. Keep the skillet and its golden fond; discard any blackened flour.

Notes

• Start the fish only when the sweet potatoes are tender and the greens are nearly finished.

Lemon-Caper Piccata Sauce

Wine and lemon cut through the richness of steelhead, while capers add briny intensity. Cold butter emulsifies the reduced liquid into a glossy sauce without cream.

Ingredients

• 1 small shallot, finely diced
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup gluten-free unsalted vegetable stock
• 3 tablespoons drained capers, briefly rinsed
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, plus more to taste
• 4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley
• to taste fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. After removing the trout, pour off excess fat, leaving about 1 teaspoon in the skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the shallot, and cook for 1–2 minutes until translucent but not browned.
2. Add the wine and scrape up the golden fond. Simmer until reduced by about half, 2–3 minutes.
3. Add the stock and capers and simmer until approximately 1/2 cup of liquid remains. Stir in the lemon juice and reduce the heat to its lowest setting.
4. Whisk in the cold butter a few cubes at a time, swirling until the sauce is glossy and lightly coats a spoon. Do not boil after adding the butter.
5. Fold in half the parsley. Taste before adding salt, then adjust the pepper and lemon. Reserve the remaining parsley for plating.

Notes

• If the sauce becomes too thick or begins to separate, remove it from the heat and whisk in cool water, 1 teaspoon at a time.
• For an alcohol-free version, use additional unsalted stock in place of the wine and adjust the lemon at the end.

Whole Roasted Japanese Sweet Potatoes

Roasting the potatoes whole concentrates their sweetness and leaves the pale interior dense and creamy. Their restrained seasoning lets the piccata sauce provide the bright contrast.

Ingredients

• 4 medium Japanese sweet potatoes, about 7–9 ounces each
• 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

Instructions

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Scrub and dry the sweet potatoes, then prick each a few times with a fork.
2. Rub lightly with the olive oil and salt. Set on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet without wrapping in foil.
3. Roast for 60–80 minutes, turning once, until the skins are slightly wrinkled and a thin skewer slides through the centers without resistance.
4. Rest for 5–10 minutes. Serve whole, making a discreet lengthwise slit just before serving so the flesh is easy to access.

Notes

• Choose similarly sized potatoes for even cooking. Finished potatoes can wait in a 200°F oven for about 20 minutes while the fish and sauce are prepared.

Garlic-Braised Spigariello Riccia

A gentle covered braise softens the curly leaves and stems while retaining their pleasant brassica character. Garlic, olive oil, and a little lemon keep the greens savory and balanced.

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 pounds Spigariello Riccia
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 3/4 cup water, plus more as needed
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• 1–2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• to taste freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Wash the spigariello thoroughly. Discard woody stem ends; slice tender stems thinly and cut the leaves into roughly 1-inch pieces.
2. Warm the olive oil and garlic in a heavy pot over medium-low heat for 1–2 minutes, until fragrant but not browned.
3. Add the stems and cook for 2 minutes. Add the leaves in handfuls, turning until wilted, then add the water and salt.
4. Cover and simmer gently for 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the leaves are dark and silky and the stems are tender. Add a splash of water if the pot becomes dry before the stems soften.
5. Uncover and simmer away excess liquid so the greens are moist rather than soupy. Finish with lemon juice, pepper, and additional salt as needed.

Notes

• Spigariello is well suited to a fall Bay Area plate. If unavailable, use broccoli leaves or a mixture of kale and broccoli rabe; adjust the braising time to tenderness.

Overall Timing / Workflow

The potatoes and greens tolerate holding, leaving the final stretch free for the fish and its quick pan sauce.

Instructions

1. 0:00 — Heat the oven to 400°F and prepare the sweet potatoes. Put them in the oven as soon as it reaches temperature.
2. 0:10 — Wash and cut the spigariello. Slice the garlic, dice the shallot, chop the parsley, and measure the sauce ingredients. Keep the butter refrigerated.
3. 0:30 — Start the greens and braise gently until tender.
4. 1:00 — Check the potatoes. If still firm, continue roasting and hold the finished greens over very low heat.
5. Once the potatoes are tender, reduce the oven to 200°F to hold them. Pat dry, season, and dust the trout, then sear it.
6. While the fish rests briefly, make the piccata sauce in its skillet. Refresh the greens with lemon, slit the potatoes, and plate immediately.

Plating

Keeping the three elements distinct preserves the contrast between golden fish, sweet potato, and silky greens.

Instructions

1. Arrange a generous mound of drained braised greens along the lower edge of each warm plate.
2. Place the trout beside and slightly overlapping the greens, with the golden flesh facing up. Set a whole roasted sweet potato alongside.
3. Spoon the warm piccata sauce over the center of each fillet, distributing the capers and shallots evenly while leaving some crust exposed.
4. Scatter the reserved parsley over the fish and serve immediately.

Leftover Path

Storing the components separately protects the fish from becoming soggy and makes it easier to reheat each element gently.

Instructions

1. Refrigerate the fish, sauce, potatoes, and greens in separate covered containers within 2 hours. Use the trout and sauce within 3 days and the vegetables within 4 days.
2. Reheat covered trout gently in a 275°F oven until it reaches 165°F. Warm the greens in a covered saucepan with a splash of water.
3. Reheat the potatoes separately in a 350°F oven until hot through, or split and microwave them.
4. Warm the sauce over very low heat with a splash of water, whisking gently without boiling. It may not recover its original emulsion, but remains useful spooned over the fish or potato.
5. For a different lunch, flake cold leftover trout over warmed greens and split sweet potato, finishing with fresh lemon and parsley.